The diminution of George T. Stagg

This was one of the first days in a long while that it wasn't near 100 degrees with high humidity which made it all the more perfect for a scheduled bourbon tasting. In the past I've hosted tastings that focus on mashbill, bonded and distillery but today's theme was something a little different.
On the table, a 2007 George T. Stagg topping out at a hefty 144.8 proof which I cut to 4 distinct proofs of 114, 107, 101 and 121. As many of you know, cutting bourbon can change the profile of a bourbon by taming the proof and bringing out subtle flavor components, etc with the goal of today's tasting to do just that. Taking a big heavy weight like GTS down from barrel strength is not hard and a dilution calculator can be found here at www.Straightbourbon.com which is what I used to determine the water to bourbon ratio. One of the attendee's was late so there were four of us tasting the GTS. Taking the bourbon down to a number of proofs provided insight into how the profile changes with diminished proof. The problem with GTS is that it's still very drinkable at its bottled proof but that's not something I would recommend you do on a regular basis. The high alcohol content can have adverse affects. In any case, the bourbon really opened up and at around 114 which are what two of us picked for being the most well rounded. One picked the 121 and one picked the 107. As you can see, our opinions varied which is what makes an exercise like this interesting and fun to do.
After the tasting we feasted on a eye of round roast that I slow cooked in my Cookshack smoker for around 3 hrs coming out at a rare 125 degrees. The roast was thinly sliced and folded onto Kaiser Rolls with provolone cheese and a horseradish and sour cream spread. On the side, some homemade Austrian sauerkraut which is slow simmered in a chicken stock for about 3 hours. After this bout of gluttony, we settled down to an impromptu tasting of a couple various bourbons. First, we lined up 4 different Four Roses Single Barrel selections which I list as follows (The recipe details can be found here):
Four Roses 100^th Anniversary (OBSV recipe)
Bourbon Society Four Roses Single Barrel (OBSK recipe)
Ledgers Four Roses Single Barrel (OESK recipe)
Private bottling from attending member (OBSK recipe)
The consensus was that the 100^th anniversary was mediocre which is surprising because at 17 years old, I would expect something with a little more depth and character to it. To me and others, it fell flat. The Bourbon Society bottle was good to very good. This was done back in July 2007 and was picked from 12 different barrels. The Ledgers Four Roses was just recently bottled and was very good; this is one of two barrels that were bottled. The last one was a bottling done by a friend so I'm not going to give out the personal details but I will say this one was big and robust with plenty of spice and heat and came in at 123 proof. This bourbon, while fun to drink is one that I would take down with water or an ice cube. He generously gave each of us a bottle of his Four Roses which is very much appreciated.
Last, and just for grins and giggles, we tasted two batches of Jefferson's Presidential 17 year which is a Stitzel Weller bourbon distilled in 1991. These were bottled 94 proof which is why we reduced the proof of the Pappy Van Winkle 15 year to 94 proof so we could do a comparison. The reason we did this is that there was some discussion about when given a choice, would you choose the Pappy or the Jefferson's? I had stated on a bourbon forum that I would take the Pappy's which a number of board members agreed with. Well, I have to admit that with the Pappy reduced to 94 proof, it was hard to choose between them at the same proof. Head to head, I would take the Jefferson's batch 4 over batch 1 as it had a little more body and mouthfeel, plus the finish was more in line with classic Stitzel Weller. Still, if having to choose between bottlings, I would still take the Pappy 15 over the Jefferson's 17; but that's just me.

Heat, humidity and bourbon

Here in Virginia, the days have been hot and humid; today going north of 100 degrees. I find I slow down the bourbon consumption when it gets too hot and I'm not sure why that is. I visited a friend earlier in the week and enjoyed a couple of excellent bourbons but then went 4 days without anything. Tonight, I did enjoy a pour of a 1986 JTS Brown 86 proof on my front porch even though it's still about 90 (thankfully the front porch is covered and has ceiling fans). I tend to drink more often from fall through the winter but when summer hits, especially when it gets this hot and steamy, whiskey intake diminishes. I know that various factors can curtail ones appetite for whiskey and I wonder if weather is one of them. It appears it is for me.

Exam-o-dram – Makers 46

I purposely set my expectations low because I really didn't have any prior experience with Makers Mark other than the normal red wax offering. Normal Makers Mark is a fairly uneventful bourbon. I'm not saying it's bad but for me, I like a little more pop to my bourbon. Enter Makers 46.

I had checked the Virginia ABC website and they listed it but the stores were a little slow in getting it on the shelves. About 2 weeks ago I walked into an ABC store and thankfully, they had just put it on display that morning priced at $34 a 750ml. Because this bourbon is finished with French oak staves as a flavoring component, it cannot be called Straight Bourbon Whiskey, just Bourbon Whiskey. Like all Makers Mark bourbon, this one is a wheated bourbon also.

The packaging is very attractive with a new shaped bottle for this release but of course, the red wax dripping down the side is still present. Overall, a good choice of bottle

The color is of moderate amber with shades of orange when held up to the light

The nose is quite a bit better than normal MM with loads of caramel and wood notes. There's a sweetness that comes through on the nose that's reminiscent of candy apple.

The entry was surprising with a pop of spice on the tongue. The spice isn't a rye type spice but more like a baking spice; cloves and cinnamon which I suspect comes from the oak staves but I can't say with any degree of certainty. Mid palate the bourbon takes on a nice candied sweetness and then begins to diminish a little too soon and finishes up slightly dry.

For a new product from Makers Mark, this is really great start. I'm not sure I'll keep this as a regular open bar item but that's only because of the price which I think is a little steep. I really hope this product sells well so it encourages Makers Mark to continue experimentation on different bourbon offerings. If you like a regular Makers or wheated bourbons in general, you should like this one as well.

BBQ & Bourbon – Sweet!

For Father's Day (a week early), my lovely bride purchased me a Cookshack smoker and I had the opportunity to set it up and use it today to smoke two Chuck Roasts. I've always been a grill guy; steaks, chicken, pork chops, etc. but then a friend introduced me to smoked meat and I was hooked. I've had brisket out of a smoker that should be illegal in most states….tasty beyond description. Of course, most BBQ is complemented quite nicely with a good bourbon or rye whiskey and today was no exception. I mean, what could go wrong with smoked meat and bourbon?

I used two rubs for the meat; an apple wood on one and rib rub on the other just to try both and see which one does a better job of adding and enhancing the flavor of the meat. I used a single 2 oz piece of apple wood in the smoker to keep the amount of smoke on the light side. I put the roasts in the smoker at 9:30 a.m. and pulled it out at around 2:45 p.m. I wrapped the meat in foil and then wrapped them in a beach towel so it could sit for about 30 minutes. When it was time to eat, unwrapped and unfoiled the meat and sliced away. I will admit the meat was a little on the dry side and I know the reason why so I'll make adjustments on the next round. We added a nice brown sugar BBQ sauce on the meat to moisten it up a little. All in all, a nice inaugural start to the smoking season.

I paired the BBQ with a nice low proof rye bourbon. Julio's Liquor offers a number of single barrel bourbon's and ryes each year and they did a single barrel Jefferson's that was quite nice. It's got a nice rye pop up front and then about mid palate moves to creamy moderate finish. The sweet BBQ and the rye bourbon was a very nice duo. I think a Baby Saz or Thomas H. Handy cut to a sensible proof would also make nice selections with a pork shoulder or a brisket.

For those of you that like to BBQ and drink bourbon or rye with your meal, give us your best or favorite pairings.

Whiskey throw down – better late than never

Back late last year and then in the New Year I mentioned that I was going to attend a whiskey throw down. Well after snow storms, illness and conflicting schedules, we finally came together and completed the task of going head to head between bourbon and Irish whiskey. It all started when my wife's Aunt started talking smack about bourbon and how it was for mullet heads with wife beater shirts. She said Scotch and Irish whiskey were a more "dignified" drink. Of course, I stepped up nose to nose and accepted the challenge.

About 10 family members got together and I began the process of explaining the origins of bourbon and the different recipes one can encounter when purchasing bourbons. I started off the sampling with an '88 Weller Special Reserve. This particular bourbon comes from the famed Stitzel Weller distillery and is of course a wheated bourbon at 90 proof. A wonderful example of a soft yet flavorful bourbon. My second sample was Sazerac Rye (Baby Saz) in order to provide an example of the opposite end of the whiskey spectrum. Third offering was Old Charter 12 year "Classic 90" which is a high corn bourbon (86%) so they could experience this type of bourbon. The last was a Wild Turkey 101 8 year so they could taste a high rye bourbon. Going through this type of progression gave everyone a new understanding and appreciation for bourbon as their thinking was somewhat one dimensional (think mullet). Now, I know the Saz is not bourbon but my intention was to go from one extreme (wheat) to the other (rye) so they could understand the unique and diverse nature of American whiskey. After the first round, I brought out the big guns; 2007 George T. Stagg at a whopping 144.8 proof and a Thomas H. Handy a slightly less 134.8 proof. My wife's Aunt took a sip of the GTS and I think her eye's spun around inside her skull and I watched with muted satisfaction at her discomfort.

At the end of the evening, my wife's Aunt and others expressed surprise at the uniqueness of bourbon and declared undying allegiance to bourbon to the end of their days (ok, I made that last part up). So, in the spirit of fairness, we broke open the two Irish whiskey my wife's Aunt brought and I'll have to say, she too brought a big gun. The first was Paddy's Old Irish Whiskey which is triple distilled and aged in oak for up to 7 years. It's blended to ensure its softness yet deliver enough flavors to make it appealing. This it does in an engaging fashion as I instantly liked this particular whiskey. Unfortunately, Paddy's is not sold in the U.S. The second Irish presented was a Bushmills Millennium. Curse Auntie for bringing such a stellar example of an Irish whiskey. My thoughts of whiskey domination were now in serious jeopardy. The Bushmills Millennium is a 24 year old whiskey, distilled in 1975 and bottled for the Millennium in late 1999. This whiskey was unlike any Irish I had ever tried delivering heaps of honey and malt. It was never overpowering but well balanced and perfect. At the end of the evening Auntie generously gifted both the Paddy's and Bushmills to me and I in return, gifted her a Pappy Van Winkle 15 year. I've found my new favorite Irish whiskey; unfortunately, it can't be found anymore so I'll have to nurse this bottle over a long period of time.

I can easily declare victory over the Irish but only because that's how it is in my world, plus Auntie will never know that I did so.

How to conduct a tasting and look cool at the same time

If you've ever hosted a tasting, read on for amusement sake, if not sit down, pour a small dram of something tasty and take notes. First, I'm going to state for the record, I'm no expert and pretty much go with having fun rather than conducting a formal exercise in whiskey snobbery. The whole idea behind a bourbon tasting is to get together with other enthusiasts and enjoy bourbon together focusing on a specific bourbon or theme. Over the last couple of years I've either hosted or attended about 7 tastings and the themes included the following:

1. Blind line-up of various bottles
   
2. As Time Goes By: A selection of bourbons covering 5 decades from the same distillery
   
3. Old Forester both past and present
   
4. Wild Turkey 101 proof both past and present
   
5. Bottled in Bond
   
6. Four Roses single barrel covering 4 different recipes
   
7. Bourbon Heritage Collection and precursors (more on this in a follow on blog)
   

If you haven't conducted a tasting and want to, I understand the thought of it might be slightly intimidating and this may stem from not quite knowing where to start or what to do. There are some internet sites that provide some guidance on holding a tasting and generally give good advice. The goal here is to have fun and make it what you want. In my opinion, the execution of the tasting is what you make it for the most part but there are some basic guidelines you should follow.

1. Keep the whiskey offering to no more than 5 or 6
   
2. Good hygiene is important for all guests but please refrain from adding a splash or dab of cologne or perfume. Smelling like a French whore will only screw with your neighbors olfactory abilities.
   
3. Do not eat food that is spicy or contains things like garlic
   
4. Use the same style glassware while tasting
   
5. Put down a white tablecloth
   
6. Make sure the room is well lighted
   
7. If anyone overindulges, don't invite them back for the next tasting
   

Let me discuss each of the above in more detail. I typically offer 4-6 whiskeys. Remember that as folks begin tasting, the alcohol effects on the palate will begin immediately. If you do have more than say 6, encourage the tasters go slow and keep the sampling more moderate. Discussing what each is experiencing as they taste will keep the pace moving at a slower rate. Smelling pretty is nice when you're on a date but smelling like Chanel No. 5 while attending a tasting will only annoy your sippin neighbors and will probably get you removed from the invite list. If you eat food that is spicy or contains a moderate amount of garlic, you won't be able to taste the bourbon in an pure manner as these will affect your taste buds. What you drink out of is important as the shape and size make a difference. I tend to use the Glencairn since the shape concentrates the nose and the size makes viewing and tasting the whiskey simple. A white tablecloth provides a neutral backdrop when viewing the whiskey. This is very important especially if you are scoring the bourbons (more on that later) and having a well lighted room makes viewing the whiskey easy. Finally, as sad as it is, some folks attending a tasting can't help themselves and overindulge. I find this type of behavior to be boorish and doesn't promote the intent or spirit of the event. If invited to a tasting, have the class to exhibit some self control.

For the most part, I like to provide scoring sheets for my guests that cover 4 basic areas; appearance, aroma, entry and finish with scoring typically covering 1 for poor to 5 for best. If you don't plan on serving dinner, make sure to tell your guests to eat beforehand. This is important as you don't want your guests tasting on an empty stomach. At the very least you should provide a platter of snacks that includes things like peanuts, cheese, crackers, etc. I always serve a meal afterward that includes some form of protein which counters the effects of alcohol.

As for a theme, well, that's really up to you. You can choose to do the tasting blind (which can make it difficult for some) or open which provides for a more relaxed event. I would encourage you to have a theme as that concentrates the discussion on things like proof, distillery, age, etc. Do some research on your theme (say a specific distillery) so you can provide some background info or history on the subject matter.

As I said, there are really no explicit rules so feel free to modify and make it work for your guests and environment. The nice byproduct of hosting a tasting event is the friends you will make over time, I certainly have. Oh, and the other outcome of holding a tasting…..you're coolness just went up another notch.

Monthly Bourbon Recommendation – Pappy Van Winkle 15 year

As I've stated on many occasion, I'm somewhat partial to wheated bourbons. While I enjoy many types of whiskeys, wheated bourbons are some of my favorite. In fact, my bunker has a large number of bottles dedicated to this type. Back in February I blogged about Stitzel Weller and briefly discussed Pappy Van Winkle and his imprint on Stitzel Weller. Today, Pappy's grandson, Julian Van Winkle III, heads up the Van Winkle line from the confines of Buffalo Trace Distillery.

There are three expressions of the Pappy line; 15, 20 and 23 year old offerings. I've had all three and do prefer the 15 year. The 20 year expression is more subtle than the 15 year, has a softness to it that's very nice. It is pricey and typically goes for over $100 a bottle. The 23 year, to me, displays some astringency and wood notes that are somewhat overstated. When drinking bourbon neat the goal of course is to find one that has nice balance; the 23 year leans heavily toward barrel notes due to its longevity in wood. So that brings me to the 15 year which is the one I wanted to talk about anyway.

I discussed the 20 year Pappy back in December 2009 in an Exam-O-Dram blog and I mentioned the color being a soft golden hue that wasn't very eye catching. I can't say the same for the 15 year which comes in a 107 proof vice 90.4 proof of the 20 year. I really like the color of the 15 year as it invites you to come over and take a closer look. Doing so yields a bourbon that is a glowing red amber and begins to whet the appetite for what's in the bottle. I would say the two dominant flavors on tasting is caramel and moderate spice. The spice is noteworthy as this is typically a characteristic of rye bourbons, not wheat. The presence of spice (not peppery but baking spice) demonstrates a deeper complexity due to the marriage of the mashbill, wood, storage and age. I mentioned balance earlier and this is one bourbon that has a pleasant balance of sweet, spice, leather and wood notes.

This bottle is difficult to find in some markets and typically goes for somewhere north of $50. If you appreciate finer bourbons, this is one for the bar but please, whatever you do, don't mix it with Diet Coke or if you do, don't tell me about it.