Monday, April 12, 2010

Monthly Bourbon Recommendation – Pappy Van Winkle 15 year

As I've stated on many occasion, I'm somewhat partial to wheated bourbons. While I enjoy many types of whiskeys, wheated bourbons are some of my favorite. In fact, my bunker has a large number of bottles dedicated to this type. Back in February I blogged about Stitzel Weller and briefly discussed Pappy Van Winkle and his imprint on Stitzel Weller. Today, Pappy's grandson, Julian Van Winkle III, heads up the Van Winkle line from the confines of Buffalo Trace Distillery.

There are three expressions of the Pappy line; 15, 20 and 23 year old offerings. I've had all three and do prefer the 15 year. The 20 year expression is more subtle than the 15 year, has a softness to it that's very nice. It is pricey and typically goes for over $100 a bottle. The 23 year, to me, displays some astringency and wood notes that are somewhat overstated. When drinking bourbon neat the goal of course is to find one that has nice balance; the 23 year leans heavily toward barrel notes due to its longevity in wood. So that brings me to the 15 year which is the one I wanted to talk about anyway.

I discussed the 20 year Pappy back in December 2009 in an Exam-O-Dram blog and I mentioned the color being a soft golden hue that wasn't very eye catching. I can't say the same for the 15 year which comes in a 107 proof vice 90.4 proof of the 20 year. I really like the color of the 15 year as it invites you to come over and take a closer look. Doing so yields a bourbon that is a glowing red amber and begins to whet the appetite for what's in the bottle. I would say the two dominant flavors on tasting is caramel and moderate spice. The spice is noteworthy as this is typically a characteristic of rye bourbons, not wheat. The presence of spice (not peppery but baking spice) demonstrates a deeper complexity due to the marriage of the mashbill, wood, storage and age. I mentioned balance earlier and this is one bourbon that has a pleasant balance of sweet, spice, leather and wood notes.

This bottle is difficult to find in some markets and typically goes for somewhere north of $50. If you appreciate finer bourbons, this is one for the bar but please, whatever you do, don't mix it with Diet Coke or if you do, don't tell me about it.

26 comments:

  1. I haven't had the 23 yr, but agree completely regarding the 15 and 20yr. I was very surprised at how much I was underwhelmed with the 20 since the 15 is a favorite of mine. On a positive note, isn't it great that the one I prefer is the cheapest of the bunch!

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  2. I can't find it on the internets, or in my local market (Norcal) :(

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  3. I too prefer the 15 to all the other Pappys. I like the proof and the age provides a well balanced bourbon. Complex, but not too heavy on any one side. It has wood notes and sweet grain notes and the caramel/vanilla is there too.

    Speaking of mixing with diet coke. We had a bunch of people go together to split a Pappy 20 -- my first experience with the line. As soon as I pour what amounted to a $10 shot for one of my friends, she promptly poured $0.25 worth of diet coke in it.

    It killed me to see it happen, but that is how she drinks her bourbon.

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  4. GV - nice to find the positive when it comes to bourbon! Don't discount the 20 too early. While I understand it underwhelmed you, there are times when a softer, well aged bourbon is just the ticket. My drinking is so eclectic it's rare if I have the same pour two nights in a row and reaching for the 20 doesn't happen that often, but it's nice to have when I want that specific profile.

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  5. Laz - Since you're in CA, you can try stores within the State that are able to ship to you. Did you try Mission Liquor (www.missionliquor.com). They carry the Pappy line but currently do not list the 15 year. Might be worth contacting them. You could also contact Shoppers Vineyard (www.shoppersvineyard.com) and see if they will ship to you. The problem you are running into is that Pappy 15 is very popular and typically is out of stock. All you can do is find a local retailer that will special order for you or get your name on a wait list with some online retailers. Hope this helps.

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  6. Ben - I'm assuming you practiced self control and didn't express your displeasure. I've had that happen and I quickly adjust so it doesn't happen again. I bring out the "mixin" bourbon and give that to the Coke/DC mixers. My brother in law did the same thing with my 1965 Old Fitz BIB. I let him know I that wasn't a mixing bourbon. Today, he drinks neat like a good boy.

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  7. Finally a review on this so I can go out and spend the money for a bottle! I waited about a month too long and all the 20yo stuff is gone here in PA. There are plenty of 15yo bottles around though! And only $46!

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  8. Ethan - At $46 I would pick up a couple at least. If you haven't had the Pappy 15, you're in for a treat.

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  9. I misread the state's website. The have the 12yo reserve, not the 15yo. I guess this is what happens when you have the flu and you're highly medicated!

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  10. Even the Lot B (12 Yr old) is good at $46. At that price, I would still keep a couple of those in the bunker.

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  11. Though it it a distinctive whiskey, at $46 I was less impressed with the Lot B than other Van Winkles I've had, but taste is a subjective thing. I just received an Old Charter 12 YO, 90 proof, from 1991 that blows its doors off!

    If we all liked the same whiskey, we'd probably all be drinking Jack!

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  12. Sam, you are correct, taste is subjective. I've always liked the Lot B but of course, if given the choice, Pappy would be my first pick. The Old Charter you received is a great bourbon. "The Classic" is one out of production bourbon I add to my bunker whenever a bottle is found. The Old Charter is a high corn bourbon (86%) and offers a variation in bourbon not found in other rye or wheat bourbons.

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  13. Main Line Sportsman mentioned that you blogged about Pappy, so this Kentucky gal had to check out your review. This is one of my hubby's favorite bourbons - the 15 year - and he and his friends often present it as birthday gifts to each other. And, I've learned through him, that no Coke, Sprite or any other soft drink should be mixed with it. On the rocks, with a splash of water and that's it. And, given that it's made here, we're quite lucky to be able to track down a bottle fairly easily. :)

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  14. JMW - thanks for checking out the blog. While among many hard core bourbon nuts (I guess I'm one of them), mixing something like Pappy with a soda is akin to putting Ketchup on a Filet Mignon. But hey, if you like Ketchup and Prime beef, go for it. It's kind of the same way with the Pappy; folks who really appreciate the bourbon for what it is, aren't going to mix it with soda but enjoy it neat or with a splash of water. The bottom line is this, drink your bourbon the way you like it. If dropping some coke into your Pappy is pleasing, well then, why not?

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  15. Wow...86 percent corn! I'd never have guessed that high. Any idea what the small grains percentages are?

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  16. I was afraid you would ask that. IIRC, the remaining is 8% rye and 6% barley.

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  17. Greg, I'm a regular drinker of Old Weller Antique 107 which I found in Kentucky, but have gotten it shipped to the local booze store here in Northern VA. How does the Antique stack up with the Old Rip Van Winkle Handmade 10 year, as I'm intrigued? Is the 15 year ORVW still available? Was thinking about getting the local ABC store to order some. Thanx.

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  18. Blue - VA ABC carries the new OWA 107 which is non age stated (NAS). This tells me over time it will no longer be 7 years old which the previous version was. I always thought the OWA 107 was a great deal in price compared to other wheaters including the ORVW 10. The extra age on the ORVW makes it a different bourbon so to me it's not necessarily a matter of better (which is still important) but how does it differ? The extra 3 years of aging will give it extra depth and may also include flavors that are somewhat more dominant than found in the OWA. For me, a higher proof, older bourbon presents more complexity so if you like that, the ORVW may be "better" to you but remember that taste is always subjective so it really comes down to what you like. The ORVW 15 which is now called Pappy Van Winkle 15 year is still available but difficult to find. VA ABC has carried the 20 year in the past but I have never seen the 15 year. You will probably have to travel to MD to find it. As you stated, try having the local ABC manager order the 15 year and see what happens. I would suggest you find a store that has a better than average bourbon selection as well as a manager who is interested in bourbon. That usually helps in the follow through.

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  19. Blue - one other comment. Based on your zip, try the Ashburn Village ABC right off Rt. 7. The manager there has been pretty responsive to special orders.

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  20. Thanx Greg. The VA ABC in Sterling behind the IHop on Rte 7 has an extensive bourbon selection as well. First place in the area to have 750 ml bottles of Weller white label and has a constant supply of OWA 107. Friendly staff as well and very amenable to ordering specials. When we first started ordering OWA 107, my two buddies and I had to buy the case when they got it in up at the store in Leesburg. Now it seems to go quickly and has a good following. I've tried the Pappy 20 year at a friend's place, but OWA 107 is my "every day" bottle of choice.

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  21. Blue - you're correct, the Cedar Lakes ABC also has a good selection. I should have suggested that as I was just in there the other day picking up a Bushmills 1608.

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  22. Talked to the Manager in Sterling and ordered ORVW 10 year. He said he has been trying to get some for a while (they have an very good bourbon wall) but there are no bottles in inventory in Virginia. He said it might be November before I see the bottles @ about $40 each. Told him I didn't plan to stop drinking bourbon between now and then so he's safe. Took his last three OWA 107's. I now have 9 OWA's (new bottle), one OWA 107 7-year, one special edition in a velvet bag with gold drizzles on the bottle. Saving the two old style Wellers for a special occasion. Thanx for the info on Cedar Lakes. The Sterling place is good, Ashburn is nice, the ABC in Ashburn near Giant used to be good but lost their mojo and Leesburg near Home Depot is spotty at best and has surly staff. Leesburg near Ben Franklin has a limited stock of "regular" booze.

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  23. just tried the 15 year old rvw,very nice.if you like the 1608 try a 12 year old red brest its class

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  24. Agreed, the Redbreast is a nice Irish also. While I love bourbon, I do like to mix in a nice non-peated, no smoke Scotch along with an Irish now and then.

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  25. Greg,

    Im becoming more and more of a bourbon fanatic (as i age). I managed to pick up a bottle of the 15 yr. I generally like to drink my whisky, whether it be a scotch, irish, etc., neat. I tried the Pappy and it blew me as far as flavor. Hands down the best bourbon Ive had. The only other bourbon at that alcohol level Ive had is Bookers (also good). Is it a big NO to throw an Ice Cube in it? I feel like if I do I should try and find those large sphere ones? I generally dont like a watered down whiskey. THoughts?

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  26. My comments are "Danger Will Robinson!" Ok, I'm showing my age with that one. Bourbon is a slippery slope because, like Scotch, there's such a big selection out there and since bourbon, again like Scotch, vary's in profile from brand to brand (and sometimes bottle to bottle) you can really get crazy with bourbon (as you can see from my pictures). Here's the rule when it comes to drinking bourbon........drink it the way you like it. That's the rule. Dropping a cube or a splash of water into a bourbon is not frowned upon, nor should it be. Now, I would say that if someone is dropping a cube or a splash of water into their 80 proof bourbon, then that person needs to stick to fruity drinks with little umbrella's. A bourbon's profile can change with the addition of ice or water so doing that can keep things interesting. Big bruisers like George T. Stagg and William LaRue Weller CAN be sipped neat but adding water/ice to take those down to a lower proof is usually a good thing, but again, drink it the way you like it.

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